Paris Women’s Fashion Week began on Monday, showcasing emerging labels before the highly anticipated debuts of new designers at Givenchy, Dries Van Noten, and Tom Ford in the coming days.
The event’s kickoff was marked by protests from People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) and the Brigitte Bardot Foundation, urging the fashion industry to cease using animal hides. Five PETA activists, dressed in faux prehistoric fur, held signs reading “Leave The Stone Age” outside the French Fashion Institute, while the Brigitte Bardot Foundation deployed billboard trucks across Paris condemning the use of animal materials.
Despite these protests, fur and sheepskin jackets have resurged in popularity, with Harrods fashion director Simon Longland calling the shearling coat a key investment for the Fall-Winter 2025 season. PETA spokesperson Natasha Garnier urged Paris to follow cities like London, Copenhagen, and Amsterdam in banning fur from the runways.
Monday’s shows featured emerging designers, including France’s Victor Weinsanto, Japan’s CFCL, and New York’s Vaquera. Yusuke Takahashi of CFCL, known for his innovative knitwear, presented a collection dominated by recycled polyester. Weinsanto, a rising star from eastern France, used only faux fur and leather in his designs, favoring a neutral winter palette with hints of bold 1980s colors.
Over the next eight days, more than 100 fashion houses will unveil their Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collections amid a challenging global luxury market.
Among the most highly anticipated debuts is Sarah Burton’s first collection for Givenchy on Friday. The former Alexander McQueen creative director, appointed in September, has generated buzz, further amplified by Timothée Chalamet’s choice of a Givenchy suit at the Oscars. “Givenchy has a very beautiful history,” Burton told Vogue last month.
Dries Van Noten’s new creative director, 33-year-old Julian Klausner, will present his inaugural collection on Wednesday, as industry insiders scrutinize the future of the Belgian label. Meanwhile, Tom Ford’s runway debut in Paris marks a milestone, with chief designer Haider Ackermann taking the helm after joining the brand in September.
Industry Uncertainty Amid Designer Shakeups
French luxury giants Louis Vuitton, Dior, Saint Laurent, and Chanel will host the most extravagant shows, with star-studded front rows. Dior’s presentation on Tuesday could be the last for head designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, as rumors swirl about her potential departure. Jonathan Anderson, currently leading Loewe, is reportedly in the running to replace her.
The luxury sector is facing economic headwinds, with declining sales and profits. LVMH, Europe’s largest company by market value, reported a 17% drop in annual net profits, citing the end of post-pandemic luxury-buying euphoria. Analysts attribute the downturn to weaker demand in China, economic uncertainty, and waning interest in high-priced goods. Similarly, Kering, the parent company of Gucci, suffered a 62% profit plunge in 2023.
Meanwhile, The Financial Times reported that Prada is the frontrunner to acquire Versace from Capri Holdings in a deal worth approximately €1.5 billion ($1.6 billion). If finalized, the acquisition would unite two of Italy’s most iconic luxury fashion brands.
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