As the northern hemisphere transitions from summer to fall, fashion weeks in global style hubs aim to captivate with visions for the upcoming warm season. Milan Fashion Week opened with a day of runway previews that showcased an array of summery designs, marking a refreshing contrast to the city’s soaring temperatures.
The first day of Milan Fashion Week featured a spectrum of Spring-Summer 2025 womenswear collections, setting the stage for the season’s trends.
Fendi Celebrates Centennial with Elegant Retrospective
Fendi, marking its centenary, unveiled a collection that elegantly nods to its founding era. The designs, presented by womenswear artistic director Kim Jones, melded art deco elements with flapper-style silhouettes, showcasing a sophisticated yet light approach. “100 years of very chic Roman women” was the theme, with the collection blending ready-to-wear and couture craftsmanship. Diaphanous dresses adorned with art-deco embroidery were paired with boots, while slip dresses were innovatively styled as skirts with sheer, crystal-embellished tops. Soft, huggable bags by Venturini Fendi complemented the looks, often carried in multiples.
Alberta Ferretti Focuses on Technique and Simplicity
In a distinctive setting—a former cloister now serving as a science museum—Alberta Ferretti presented her Spring-Summer 2025 collection. The show, framed by an elegant dome, highlighted artisanal craftsmanship through laser-cut cotton that mimicked lace and dresses adorned with stitched cotton leaves. Ferretti’s focus was on technique over embellishment, with pleated dresses and casual boxer shorts featuring prominently. Earthy tones characterized the daywear, while bright chiffon gowns took center stage for evening looks. “They are real summer clothes, because the world in the summer is very warm,” Ferretti emphasized.
Marni Delivers Whimsical Elegance
Marni, under creative director Francesco Risso, continued its tradition of playful fashion with a collection that blended whimsical tailoring with everyday wear. Women’s outfits included form-fitting dresses and skirts with deep slits and mermaid flares, enhanced by feathers, boas, and crystals. Men’s wear featured broad-shouldered jackets and slim trousers, with inventive details like an off-center bow on a chiffon blouson. The presentation included models navigating a showroom set with wooden chairs, accompanied by a percussive piano trio. Risso’s designs were complemented by quirky hats with military-inspired flair, embodying the brand’s characteristic whimsy.
Overall, the first day of Milan Fashion Week set a high bar for creativity and craftsmanship in the Spring-Summer 2025 collections.
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