In a dazzling display of horological finesse, Bulgari and Piaget recently debuted their latest ultra-thin timepieces at the prestigious Watches and Wonders Geneva fair. This unveiling reignited a spirited competition between the two renowned luxury brands, each vying for the title of crafting the world’s thinnest watches.
The rivalry traces back to the summer of 2022 when Richard Mille stunned aficionados with the unveiling of the RM UP-01 Ferrari, a marvelously thin timepiece measuring a mere 1.75mm thick and priced at a staggering US$1.88 million. With this feat, Mille snatched the ultra-thin record from Bulgari, which had only recently claimed it with the Octo Finissimo Ultra measuring 1.8mm in thickness.
This year, Bulgari retaliated with the unveiling of the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, boasting a svelte profile of 1.7mm, thinner than a U.S. quarter. Notably, this masterpiece not only secures the title of the thinnest mechanical watch ever produced but also claims the distinction of being the world’s thinnest COSC chronometer. Bulgari’s triumph marks its ninth world record in the ultra-thin category, showcasing a legacy of innovation that includes crafting the thinnest minute repeater, chronograph GMT, and perpetual calendar.
The achievement was made possible through Bulgari’s tireless research and development efforts, in collaboration with Concepto, independent specialists in intricate movements. Their meticulous work involved refining the case and optimizing the thickness of the sapphire crystal, shaving off an additional tenth of a millimeter from the Octo Finissimo Ultra.
This remarkable timepiece ingeniously multi-purposes components, with the case back serving as the main plate for the manually wound BVL180 manufacture caliber, comprising 170 components. To ensure structural integrity, the case back/main plate is crafted from dense, ultra-resistant tungsten carbide.
Adding to its allure, the Octo Finissimo Ultra offers high-tech setting and winding capabilities. Placing it in its dedicated case equipped with a digital display enables automatic adjustment and winding at the touch of a button, a feat of modern engineering.
Bulgari is set to produce a limited run of 20 pieces each in ultralight titanium (priced at US$529,000) and platinum (priced at US$546,000), available by special order. Both variants are equipped with the remarkable BVL 180 manufacture caliber, measuring an astonishing 1.5mm thick.
Antoine Pin, director of Bulgari’s watchmaking division, expressed pride in the brand’s relentless pursuit of innovation, stating, “The Octo Finissimo is a vast playground of innovation and design–and a source of unprecedented challenges—for Bulgari’s R&D department.”
In a parallel narrative, Piaget commemorated its 150th anniversary by unveiling the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, measuring a mere 2mm in thickness and priced around US$650,000. This masterpiece not only pays homage to Piaget’s legacy in ultra-thin watchmaking but also usurps Bulgari’s record as the world’s thinnest tourbillon.
Building upon the success of the 2018 Altiplano Ultimate Concept, Piaget raised the bar by incorporating a flying tourbillon into the design, a feat requiring three years of intensive redesign and reinvention. The resulting timepiece retains its aesthetic allure while boasting enhanced technical prowess.
Key to its slim profile is the fusion of the movement’s main plate and case back, ensuring minimal thickness and maximum comfort for the wearer. Piaget further optimized the thickness of the sapphire crystals, reducing them to 0.2mm on the dial-side and 0.16mm on the back, thereby achieving unparalleled thinness without compromising durability.
Crafted from a deep blue treated cobalt alloy, the 41.5mm case offers an optimal balance of thinness and hardness. The integrated crown, operated using a dedicated stylus, energizes the exposed skeletonized barrel at 6 o’clock, demonstrating Piaget’s commitment to both form and function.
In an industry where precision and elegance converge, Bulgari and Piaget continue to push the boundaries of watchmaking, each unveiling timepieces that defy conventional limits and redefine the art of ultra-thin horology.
