Louis Vuitton beckons enthusiasts on a voyage far beyond the realms of reality with its latest spectacle, the Deep Time collection of high jewelry. Unveiling its second chapter earlier this year in Paris, the maison transported the essence of this collection to Phuket in March, orchestrating a mesmerizing showcase at a private villa nestled within the Amanpuri resort.
As the name implies, Deep Time draws inspiration from Earth’s grand narrative—its seismic shifts, the serendipity of life’s emergence, and the tapestry of evolution. Chapter Two unfolds with the addition of 50 new pieces spanning across 10 distinct themes. These themes embark on a journey through geological epochs, from the primordial supercontinents of Gondwana and Laurasia to the poignant symbolism of DNA, skin, bones, and flora—a kaleidoscopic expedition through the annals of our planet’s history.
Francesca Amfitheatrof, the ingenious artistic director of watches and jewelry at Louis Vuitton, is the visionary behind this odyssey. During the showcase in Phuket, she offered illuminating insights into the genesis of this audacious interpretation of time travel through jewelry.
Q: Your high jewelry collections for Louis Vuitton always boast a strong narrative framework. Deep Time exudes an almost nature documentary-like essence. How did you conceive it?
Amfitheatrof: “I was deeply compelled to delve into the realm of gemology and geology. The journey began with the cosmic genesis, traversing the spectrum of evolution until culminating in the essence of the Vuitton flower—a journey reminiscent of a BBC documentary, yet imbued with poetic resonance.”
Q: You undertook a remarkable project previously, crafting a holiday retreat within a cave on an Italian island. Did that experience influence Deep Time in any capacity?
Amfitheatrof: “Remarkably so. It’s intriguing to realize that my residences—a dwelling near a mine in Mine Hill, Connecticut, and a cave—are unwittingly emblematic of my affinity for geological landscapes. The inspiration for Deep Time was further fueled by an expedition to the very island housing my cave sanctuary.”
Q: What was the creative process like during this inspirational journey?
Amfitheatrof: “Our sojourn to the Italian island immersed us in a crucible of interdisciplinary exploration, enriched by the guidance of experts in geology, botany, and history. We would engage in scholarly pursuits, followed by refreshing swims, which fostered a fertile ground for creativity. Designing jewelry amidst the island’s flora and fauna engendered an unparalleled connection, shaping the essence of Deep Time.”
Q: Are there any gemstones you’re particularly eager to incorporate into your designs?
Amfitheatrof: “I harbor an enduring fascination for moonstones, with their ethereal azure hues juxtaposed against the brilliance of diamonds. Additionally, trapiche emeralds, adorned with their celestial star-like formations, hold a perennial allure. While not exorbitantly priced, these gemstones exude intrigue and charm, enriching the narrative tapestry of Deep Time.”
Q: When designing high jewelry for Louis Vuitton, do you feel compelled to prioritize opulence?
Amfitheatrof: “Our creative ethos is a harmonious blend of opulence and innovation. While we are privileged to procure the most exquisite gemstones, we relish the opportunity to imbue our creations with unconventional allure. It’s not merely about size but about the emotive resonance and narrative depth of each piece.”
Q: Do you actively seek out unconventional stones for your creations?
Amfitheatrof: “Absolutely. Our annual pilgrimage to the Tucson gem fair is an exhilarating quest for singular treasures—stones that may not boast the pedigree of traditional gems yet possess an innate charisma. The response to our pieces featuring these unconventional stones underscores the profound allure of the unexpected.”
The Deep Time collection stands as a testament to Louis Vuitton’s unwavering commitment to pushing the boundaries of haute joaillerie, inviting aficionados to embark on a timeless odyssey through Earth’s enigmatic past, rendered in resplendent jewels.
