During a journey to Georgia last year, a visit to a qvevri maker’s workshop emerged as a memorable highlight. Stepping into the workshop, we found ourselves surrounded by towering qvevris, resembling colossal clay beehives in the process of creation. Zaza Kbilashvili, our host and one of the three qvevri artisans in Kakheti, had forsaken a legal career to join his father in the family workshop. Despite the labor-intensive nature of crafting each qvevri entirely by hand, the demand was soaring, with orders pouring in from beyond Georgia, fetching approximately US$2,000 per vessel. Over the past decade, the qvevri trade had burgeoned from three families to nine, reflecting the growing allure of these vessels for fermentation and ageing.
Qvevris have garnered favor among winemakers worldwide, despite the formidable challenges of procurement and transportation, driven by their romantic allure and distinctive qualities. This resurgence prompts reflection on the evolving preferences in wine aging techniques. In an era where terroir and varietal expression take precedence over the uniformity induced by barriques, alternatives like concrete are experiencing a resurgence. The resurgence of concrete vessels aligns with the ethos of minimal intervention winemaking, emphasizing the role of the vineyard in shaping wine character.
The shift in focus from a select few noble grape varieties to embracing varietal diversity underscores the need for a broader spectrum of ageing methods. While barriques once symbolized sophistication, their overt influence on wine character is now viewed with skepticism in low-intervention wine circles. Concrete and stainless steel offer neutral alternatives, facilitating a purer expression of grape varietals devoid of the overt oak influence. However, caution is urged against vilifying barriques entirely, as they continue to play a vital role in crafting exceptional wines worldwide.
The realm of wine ageing is evolving, embracing a diversity of vessels and techniques to accommodate the intricate nuances of different grape varieties. Even in regions steeped in tradition like Georgia, where qvevris hold cultural significance, there’s recognition of the value of European-style wines aged in barrels. Ultimately, the pursuit of excellence in winemaking demands a nuanced approach, appreciating the unique contributions of each ageing vessel while honoring the diversity of grape varietals. In a world where Cabernet Sauvignon harmonizes with French oak barriques, and Nebbiolo finds its essence unadulterated by wood, the symphony of wine continues to evolve, celebrating the richness of tradition alongside the spirit of innovation.
