MILAN, Italy – The commencement of Milan’s Fall/Winter 2024-2025 fashion week saw a dramatic start as two anti-fur activists interrupted the Fendi catwalk, underscoring ongoing debates within the industry. Despite the initial disruption, the upcoming shows from renowned brands such as Roberto Cavalli, Prada, Versace, and Dolce & Gabbana are expected to bring a sense of festivity and flair to Italy’s northern fashion capital.
The disruption at Fendi hinted at a broader backdrop of uncertainty in the global luxury fashion market. Muted growth projections, concerns about inflation, an economic slowdown in China, and geopolitical risks are collectively casting a shadow over the sector. According to McKinsey’s State of Fashion report, the industry is anticipated to see a global expansion of just three to five percent in the current year, compared to an estimated five to seven percent in 2023.
Italy’s diverse fashion sector, encompassing clothing, leather, shoes, jewelry, cosmetics, and accessories, grew by four percent to nearly 103 billion euros ($110 billion) last year, according to the National Chamber for Italian Fashion.
Carlo Capasa, the head of the association, acknowledged the complexity of the upcoming year, citing three wars and European and US elections as contributing factors during a press conference earlier this month. He described it as a “year of transition.”
Despite the industry’s challenges, Milan Fashion Week continued with its glamour and anticipation. Fendi, known for its use of fur, faced protests from animal rights activists, emphasizing the ongoing ethical discussions within the fashion world. PETA UK claimed responsibility for the disruptions.
Fendi’s runway showcased a collection by designer Kim Jones that skillfully avoided the use of fur. Sweaters took center stage, deconstructed into shirts or shawls, reflecting a blend of innovation and muted tones.
Alberta Ferretti introduced upscale sophistication with mustard hues and shimmering bronzes in silk dresses, coats, and separates. Diesel, the denim brand, embraced a rock n’ roll aesthetic with a collection featuring grey plaid suit fabric jeans and post-apocalyptic floral fabric.
With over 100,000 attendees, including buyers, media, and brand representatives, expectations are high for the debut collection of Adrian Appiolaza for Moschino, set to be unveiled on Thursday. The Argentine designer, appointed as creative director last month, faces the challenge of succeeding Davide Renne, who tragically passed away just 10 days into the job.
Milan Fashion Week also anticipates debut collections from Walter Chiapponi at Blumarine and Matteo Tamburini at Tod’s, adding an extra layer of excitement to the fashion extravaganza.
In a nod to the global appeal of Milan Fashion Week, Japanese rock star Yoshiki Hayashi launched Maison Yoshiki, offering a “feminine but also genderless collection, flamboyant with a rebellious touch,” as a tribute to the diverse audience, particularly from Asia.
